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Leghorn & Etruscan Coast

Getting there

By plane

The closest international airport is Pisa’s Galileo Galilei (PSA), the main hub in Tuscany, which has flights operated by both national and low-cost airlines (Alitalia, easyJet, Ryanair). The airport is 18 km from the port of Leghorn.

By train

Leghorn is on the railway line between Genoa and Rome. Trains depart from Pisa every 20 minutes and the journey takes 15 minutes. Every 30 minutes, trains leave Florence bound for Leghorn and take about an hour and a half.

By boat

Leghorn is connected by ferry to Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily and Spain via these ferry companies: Corsica Ferries, Sardinia Ferries and Moby.

By car

From Genoa, join the A12 motorway Genoa-Leghorn. From the South, take the A1 motorway as far as Florence, continue along the A11 motorway towards Pisa and finally take the A12 motorway exiting at Livorno. From Florence, join the trunk road between Florence-Pisa-Leghorn and exit at Leghorn centre. From Rome, take the A12 motorway (Rome-Civitavecchia) and then follow the SS1/E80 trunk road, which takes you from Civitavecchia to Leghorn.

Getting around

By bus

Leghorn’s urban bus service is operated by the CTT company, which has 2 lines, one blue and the other red, offering good connections inside the town.

By car

It’s advisable to hire a car to get around independently along the coast and to visit beaches and inland villages.

On foot

You can comfortably get around the town centre on foot; that way you won’t miss any of the beautiful sights Leghorn has to offer.

When to go

Spring

You can focus your tour on art, history and science. Leghorn and the Etruscan coast are full of possibilities; sporty types can find many routes to follow on foot, on bicycle or on horseback, at just the right time, in Spring.

Summer

Now is the moment to dive into the exquisite colours of the Tyrrhenian Sea while unwinding on the ‘Blue Flag’ beaches, or at events, markets and festivals in the villages along the coast. A blend of sea, nature and fun that won’t disappoint.

What to bring

Bring lightweight, comfortable clothes because temperatures are mild, even in Spring. But don’t forget a jacket for those moments when the strong wind gets up. Pack swimsuits and beach towels too, if you are planning a holiday in the summertime; they can be useful for a trip to the thermal spa, as well. Bring comfy shoes, if you are sporty and want adventure, or if you may prefer to go for a walk through the historic parks, where the Etruscans walked long ago.

Budget

Accommodation

You’ll spend about €60 per night in a b&b in Leghorn town, €90-100 per night in a 3-star hotel. At Venturina, hotel prices are around the €90 mark, in high season.

Food

For a lunch or dinner in a typical osteria, you’ll spend from €20 to €30 on average, but it’s possible to spend less if you choose street food and the very typical local delicacy of ‘torta di ceci’, or chickpea pancake, for just a few Euros.

Getting around

A CTT, 75-minute bus ticket costs €1.20; a day ticket is €4.20. To get around along the Etruscan Coast, it’s advisable to use your car.

Local Cuisine

Cacciucco: this is the symbolic dish of the town. A tasty soup made from crustaceans, shellfish, cuttlefish, octopus, etc. Ideally, there are 5 different types of fish used in this recipe, just as there are 5 Cs in the name ‘cacciucco’.
Triglie alla livornese: a classic main dish from Leghorn. The stewed fish is cooked in a tomato sauce seasoned with pepper, onion, parsley and bay leaf. A real speciality you absolutely must taste during your visit.

Roschette livornesi: a simple, authentic dish of Jewish origins. ‘Roschette’ are typical doughnuts made at Jewish Easter, prepared with an oil-based dough, which today you can find in any bakery.

Fun facts

The statue and symbol of Leghorn town is in Piazza Micheli. It was erected in honour of Ferdinando I de’ Medici, and was directly commissioned by him. It shows the Grand Duke with 4 figures of Moor pirates, in chains. The statue is so realistic that is almost seems to move. It appears that the artist, Tacca, was inspired by two prisoners in Leghorn gaol, Morgiano and Alì Salettino. It’s said that it’s possible to see all 4 noses of the Moors at the same time, so don’t be surprised if you see someone in some strange positions, they’ll be looking for that perfect angle!

Inhabitants of Leghorn are people of the sea, who are very friendly and witty, and they maintain that London’s Covent Garden is a copy of the central market in Leghorn. True? All you can do is go and look for yourself. ‘Cinque e cinque’, or five and five, is the name of Leghorn’s ‘torta di ceci’, or chickpea pancake, (and watch out if you call it ‘cecina’, that’s a village), the name ‘cinque e cinque’ comes from the ancient local habit of asking 5 coins for bread and 5 for a pancake.

the 10 reasons to visit Leghorn & Etruscan Coast

terrazza mascagni
1

Take a walk on the evocative chessboard at the Terrazza Mascagni

santuario madonna delle grazie montenero
2

Go up the funicular railway to the picturesque Santuario della Madonna di Montenero. From here, you can enjoy the spectacular view over Leghorn and the sea

quartiere venezia città di livorno
3

Take a stroll round the Venice district, with its canals and bridges, and the location for the local regatta dei Gozzi, a fisherman’s boat race

sito archeologico baratti e populonia
4

Explore the traces left by the Etruscan civilisation in the Archaeological Park at Baratti and Populonia

vino rosso sassicaia
5

Sip a glass of Sassicaia, the fabulous wine much loved around the world

spiaggia conchiglia di san vincenzo toscana
6

Go for a dip in the clear waters at the beach at La Conchiglia di San Vincenzo

terme del calidario a venturina
7

Unwind at the Calidario thermal spa at Venturina; it has been known for its health-giving benefits since Etruscan times

castagneto parco letterario carduccio
8

Visit the museum in the house and park of the literary author, Giosuè Carducci at Castagneto Carducci

calette di castiglioncello
9

Lose yourself in the coves at Castiglioncello, choosing between sand and rocks

strada con cipressi di bolgheri
10

Go for a walk through the cypresses at Bolgheri, a charming, little Medieval village

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